Zanzibar for a 5th and Final Time

Whitney, a new arrival to Dar and also my new roommate, talked me into going to Zanzibar for the weekend. Not that I was hard to convince. Sauti za Busara (sounds of rhythm), an international music festival with artists from all over Africa, was going on. And anyway, who could say no to an island for their last weekend in Tanzania (I’ll explain that later). We spent all of Saturday afternoon, evening and night at the festival. The place was packed and the music and dancing was great. Late night we headed to Starehe – the reggae club. On Sunday, Whitney and I spent the day on a beach outside Stone Town with two of my Zanzibari friends. In the evening, we headed to the festival again. We made it back to Dar on Monday afternoon exhausted from the weekend of partying. Not a bad way to spend the weekend…

Mara, Whitney, Me and Lindsey at the music festival

I’m sorry, did you just try to bribe me?

From Zanzibar it was off to Cape Town via Johannesburg. Johannesburg airport is infamously known for stuff being stolen out of checked baggage. Years ago I flew through with my mom and my sneakers went missing. At that time, I laughed it off and told myself someone needed my sneakers more than I did. This time, I was determined to not have my bag broken into. Unfortunately my backpack doesn’t lock, so I hoped all the duct tape I put around the clips would do the trick.

When going through security at Zanzibar International Airport, I was asked to open my bag. I told the woman that it would be a pain for me to open my bag with all the duct tape on it. She leaned forward and quietly told me to just give her a tip. Annoyed and angry, I told her to go ahead and open my bag and that I wasn’t going to “tip” her. The other security official standing next to her asked what I had in the bag. I told him the truth – a sleeping bag, some toiletries and dirty laundry…nothing too exciting. We shared a laugh and he passed the bag through.

As I walked away, a few thoughts went through my head.

1. So typical of East Africa that even though I was in an airport, what I believe to be an official place, someone was trying to bribe me.

2. I couldn’t believe this devout Muslim woman was trying to bribe me. I’m pretty sure Allah doesn’t allow bribes.

3. My worst thought: A small bribe can get a bag through security without it being screened.

A Few Days of R&R

After a dusty safari, Roy and I headed to Zanzibar for a few days of R&R. We stayed in an awesome hotel (Abuso Inn) with a beach view and air conditioning for only $47/night…thanks to my awesome Swahili!!! They also had delicious lattes for breakfast, which is a rarity in Tanzania. We did a Spice Tour, enjoyed sundowners at Africa House Hotel, wandered the small windy streets of Stone Town, visited pristine beaches and sampled seafood and Zanzibari pizza in the street market at night. It was the perfect vacation after an exhausting safari. Sitting in a Land Rover and looking for animals is hard work.

Roy eating a fresh coconut off the street

A typical street in Stone Town

Stepping foot in the clear blue water of Zanzibar

Sunset from Africa House Hotel, enjoyed with a nice cold beer in hand

How Many People Can Fit on a Dala-Dala

Dala-dalas are the island’s form of public transportation. They are either 15-person vans or pick up trucks with two rows of seating in the back. They run all over the island, with the furthest trip (about 2.5 hours) costing $1.85.  There is no set schedule, and they typically only leave once they are full.  I’ve never waited more than 15 minutes. The question is, when are they full? The obvious answer would be when there are 15 people because there are 15 seats. But you have to remember this is Africa.  The dala-dala is only full when the person sitting on your lap has someone on his or her lap. The most we had on our trip to Jambiani was 33 people! And that doesn’t include all the goods thrown on top – goats, potatoes, firewood, luggage, etc.  At least they are being efficient.